Wednesday, April 2, 2008

With respect to my topic of study, Fez (or Morocco as a whole) is a place completely unique in itself as compared to any other place I have gotten the chance to study. There are three areas of the city and they are (in order of oldest to newest) the Medina (the Muslim quarter), the Jewish Quarter and the French Quarter. All but the French Quarter are the same type of urban design style. The Medina and Jewish Quarter contained, for the most part, no urban space……at least not to the public eye. These parts are a series of dense labyrinths only braking building mass for another alley way or street. But, as we were told by our tour guide, Fez is a city that hides its beauty. Urban space does not occur in this city in the open public form, but rather in the semi-private form. “Fezians” bring public space indoors in the form of interior courtyards. Their architecture is internally based, a big contrast to much other architecture that is very externally based. This gives the first impression that the city is extremely dense and lacking any ornamentation, but when you look further there are many relief spaces that not only contain green areas but also contain much of the architectural style and ornamentation that these people are so well known for. These spaces are just maintained within the home. And not do you see these courtyards in homes, but also in schools, religious spaces, and businesses such as tanners, weavers, potters, etc. Around the palace holds the major exception to this “rule” of spaces, because around it are open areas where the density of the city gives way and provides relief and space around that of the government.


When one moves outward to the French Quarter you can see the change of influence of design. Houses become more modern, and are in more of a neighborhood setup much like suburban United States. It is also very apparent that it is the wealthier district with the restaurants and large modern homes that line the streets with ornate gateways and mosaic designs. You can also see the more European influence in the architecture in the externally based designs and modern style (as it is an area built by French when Franc e moved into Morocco). Green Space Is prevalent here, and the main road is much like La Rambla with the large pedestrian center and vehicular traffic on either side. This pedestrian area is lined with trees and has many grassy areas forming walkways and gathering spaces and benches for people to come and relax, gather and enjoy the outdoors. This area was very full with people every time I passed it. Children were playing, adults sitting and talking and people strolling the walkways. So it seemed, to me at least, that this space is very successful and much used.


Islam is based “on the act of surrender and submission….. In Islam, the individual is not asked to surrender to a figure of a godhead but to a way of life, and it is for this reason that the Muslim does not look for a temple to worship at, but a “place” to demonstrate his capacity for hit faith.” This shows in every piece of architecture that we got to study, observe and sketch. They believe that the outside is the unstructured world while the inside is structured. It is apparent that this is why one must go through a series of corridors to enter the interior space in every building, especially homes. Everything is based around a clear center, and it is unmistakable in most, if not all of the spaces, what the center is and the division between the spaces that are considered sacred and those that are considered profane. Not only do the buildings follow these design standards, but the designs in mosaic and painting contain obvious centers, distinct edges, and obvious differentiation of space. The exterior space contains very few windows, and appears very bland. It is a stylistic design that takes that further investigation into the deeper layers to truly understand the design styles and incredible intricacies that are in everything. The center, that deeper layer, is not just rooted in design; it goes further into their beliefs. “He who resides nearest and closest to the “inside” is therefore a complete person.” This center created organization in life and design.


The house being based around the courtyard is also something that is so incredibly prevalent that one needs to know the reason. The Quran says in translation that “the inside of your house is a sanctuary; those who violate it by calling you while you are inside do not keep the respect which they owe…”, and this explains why no matter what door you come in, you can never see into the house and the courtyard. You remain around corners and in hallways until, after being guided in, you are opened up into the much protected personal space of the home and the courtyard.


Overall the architectural style, both urban design wise (with respect to narrow roads and alleyways and dense city blocks) and in individual building design, is so incredible to study and has so much basis and reasoning that it is impossible to truly understand everything in such a short amount of time. Studying urban space as my topic lead me in this city to studying and observing the interior spaces and the edges and centers that occurred. Everything is interwoven, and revolves around the way of life that they live and the laws of their religion that guide them. I can’t wait to go back to cities like this and get to further explore the reasoning behind the designs that occur.

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